Biking Through Denmark

Frankly, I'd never given much thought to Denmark before pedaling around a good part of it on a bike tour last summer, but I knew it was noted for its scantily clad women, Viking history, a popular and beloved Queen with democratic ways, the famed statue of Hans Christian Anderson's "Little Mermaid," and Tivoli Gardens, a spectacular park in the middle of Copenhagen, one of the world's most charming cities. And, of course, Denmark is supposedly the homeland of Shakespeare's Hamlet.

Except for Hamlet, it all turned out to be true. I also discovered that Denmark is an "island kingdom," with more than 500 islands, 4,600 miles of coastline, and the sea never more than 45 miles away from anywhere.

Our 12-day bicycle tour, one of several offered every year by International Bicycle Tours which specializes in trips for mature bikers, took us to five of those islands. We crossed the sea from one to the other by ferry and wheeled through farmland and forests, along the seacoast, past castles and thatched cottages, into tiny villages and bustling seaside towns.

Covering about 30 miles a day, we ate lunch on the road, stopped for an afternoon snack, and arrived at a comfortable little hotel by late afternoon -- just in time for a hot bath and a good dinner.

Although a gaggle of middle-aged bikers may be considered a strange sight at home, that's not the case in Denmark. There, everybody -- young and old -- rides a bicycle. In fact, parking lots, especially those at commuter stations, always hold many more parked bicycles than cars.

None of our group of 25 cyclists could be classified as an athlete. Most of us had long since passed the age of 50, but we all turned out to be in good enough shape to cover more than 250 miles under our own power before we went home, extremely pleased with ourselves. We were free, of course, to hitch a ride on the support van that carried our luggage and repair equipment, but on this trip nobody ever did.

Our adventures began in the tiny farming village of Menstrup, a few miles from Copenhagen Kastrup Airport where we'd landed early on a summer morning. We checked into a pleasant inn. Then, supervised by our guide Niels, a former airline captain, we practiced riding our three-speed bikes along quiet roads bordered by vast fields of golden wheat.

Next morning, we boarded our bikes and set forth at a leisurely pace, headed northwest to Trelleborg, an excavated Viking fortress from the year 980, and spent the night in Korsar, a busy harbor town.

A ferry took us to the island of Fyn. Pedaling south along the coast to Svendborg, we explored this maritime town on foot, cruised by boat to visit Valdemar's castle, and browsed the shops. On to the medieval castle of Egestov, then over by ferry to the cobblestoned streets and half-timbered houses on the island of Aero. Langeland was next, then Lolland.

We wound up at Nykobing on the island of Falster, where we gave up our bikes and bussed back to Copenhagen, stopping on the way at the famous Viking Museum in Roskilde.

The weather tends to be cool in Denmark in summer. Shorts and t-shirts are fine most of the time, but you'll need a couple of sweaters or a light jacket too. Pack lightweight rain gear (you'll ride rain or shine), sunscreen, sunglasses and bike gloves. Above all, I suggest you invest in some padded bicycle shorts or underwear. Spend five or six hours a day on a hard bicycle seat and you'll soon find out why!

Don't sign up for a bicycle tour unless you're in good physical condition and are willing to spend many hours practicing before you go. Ride your bike several miles a day for at least a month, take a few longer rides and always include some hills.

For most of us of a certain age, a trip rated "easy" or perhaps "moderate" is best. The route in Denmark is basically flat---mostly farmland, with the highest point only about 60 feet above sea level---but the going can get tough if your muscles aren't up to it.

The Danish tour costs $1,830, plus airfare. To learn more, write International Bicycle Tours, PO Box 754, Essex CT 06426, or call 860-767-7005.

(Joan Rattner Heilman is the author of Unbelievably Good Deals & Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (Contemporary Books, $11.95, 10th edition).)